Common Credit Report Errors to Look For

Why it's worth checking

Credit reports are compiled from information sent by lenders, collectors, and other companies (called furnishers), and mistakes happen. A Federal Trade Commission study released in 2013 found that about one in five consumers had an error on at least one of their credit reports. Some errors don't matter much. Others, like a payment wrongly marked late or a debt that isn't yours, can make it harder to get approved for a loan, a card, or an apartment.

You can get your reports from all three bureaus for free at AnnualCreditReport.com. Check each one, because errors can appear on one report and not the others. If you're new to reading them, start with our guide on how to read your credit report step by step.

1. Personal information errors

Look at your name, addresses, date of birth, and the last digits of your Social Security number.

• Misspelled names or old addresses are common and usually harmless on their own.
• A name, address, or Social Security number that isn't yours is more serious. It can mean your file has been mixed with someone else's, or it can be an early sign of identity theft.

Mixed files

A mixed file happens when another person's information lands in your report, often someone with a similar name, a relative with the same name, or someone whose Social Security number differs from yours by a digit. Signs include addresses where you never lived, a different middle name, and accounts you don't recognize, often all at once. If you see this pattern, mention it in your dispute so the bureau looks at the file as a whole.

2. Accounts that aren't yours

An account you've never opened, or a debt you don't recognize, is one of the most important things to catch. It can come from a mixed file or from identity theft.

If you believe someone used your identity:

1. Report it at IdentityTheft.gov, which creates an identity theft report and a recovery plan.
2. Place a fraud alert (free, and one bureau notifies the other two) or a credit freeze (free, placed with each bureau separately).
3. Send the bureaus your identity theft report with a request to block the fraudulent information. When a bureau receives the right documents, federal law generally requires it to block that information within four business days.

3. Incorrect payment history

Check the month-by-month payment grid on each account:

• A payment marked 30, 60, or 90 days late when you paid on time
• An account shown as delinquent after you brought it current
• Late payments reported during a period when you had an agreed-on deferment, forbearance, or payment plan
• A late payment reported for a month when an autopay you set up should have covered it (bank records help here)

4. Wrong account status or balance

• A paid or settled account still showing a balance
• A closed account shown as open, or one you closed shown as "closed by creditor"
• An account included in a bankruptcy still showing a balance owed
• An account where you're an authorized user listed as if you were responsible for the debt
• A missing credit limit, which can make your utilization look higher than it is (see our guide to credit utilization)

5. Duplicate debts

The same debt can appear more than once, for example when an account is sold to a collector and both the original creditor and the collector report a balance. Only one of them should show what you owe. The original account should show a zero balance once the debt has been sold. The same debt can also be sold more than once, leaving two collection accounts for a single bill.

6. Outdated information

Most negative items can be reported for up to seven years, and some bankruptcies for up to ten. Check that old items aren't past their limit, and that the date of first delinquency is right. A collection showing a newer date than the original delinquency can make an old debt look recent. Our guide on how long negative information stays covers the time limits.

How to dispute an error

1. Gather proof. Statements, payment confirmations, settlement letters, or anything else that shows the information is wrong.
2. Dispute with each bureau that shows the error. You can do it online, by phone, or by mail. Explain exactly what's wrong and what it should say, and include copies (never originals) of your documents.
3. Consider disputing with the company that reported it, too. In most cases, lenders and collectors also have to investigate disputes sent directly to them.
4. Keep records of what you sent and when. If you mail it, certified mail gives you proof of delivery.
5. Watch for the results. Bureaus generally have 30 days to investigate (up to 45 in some cases, such as when you send more information during the investigation). They must send you the results in writing, along with a free updated report if anything changed.

What to include in a dispute letter

A clear dispute is specific. Whether you write it yourself or use an online form, cover:

• Your full name, current address, and date of birth, plus a copy of an ID and proof of address if you're mailing it
• The company name and the last few digits of the account number as they appear on your report
• What's wrong, in one or two sentences: for example, "This account shows a 60-day late payment in March 2025. I paid on time on March 2, 2025. A copy of my bank statement showing the payment is enclosed."
• What it should say: for example, "Please update the March 2025 payment status to current."
• A list of the documents you've enclosed

One dispute per issue, with its own evidence, is easier for the bureau to investigate than a long list without documents. Online disputes are faster, but mail can give you more room for documents and a paper trail.

Disputing with a collector

If a collection agency contacts you about a debt you don't recognize or think is wrong, you have the right to dispute it with the collector. Collectors must send you a validation notice that explains the debt and how long you have to dispute it. If you dispute in writing within that period, the collector generally must pause collection until it sends you verification. The CFPB explains your rights with debt collectors in more detail.

After the investigation

• If the item is corrected or deleted: check your other reports too, since the error may appear there as well. The bureau generally can't put deleted information back unless the furnisher certifies it's accurate, and it must tell you within five business days if it does.
• If the bureau says the item is accurate: see the next section.
• If the bureau calls your dispute "frivolous": a bureau can decline to investigate a dispute it decides is frivolous or irrelevant, for example when it doesn't include enough information. It must tell you why within five business days. Usually the fix is to send a clearer, documented dispute.

If the dispute doesn't resolve it

If the bureau keeps information you believe is wrong, you can send new documents and dispute again, ask the bureau to describe how it verified the information (it must tell you within 15 days of your request), add a brief statement to your report explaining your side, or file a complaint with the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau.

Getting help

Disputing is free, and you can always do it yourself. Some people choose to get help organizing their documents and tracking responses across all three bureaus, especially when several items are involved. AxleCredit offers individualized dispute support for information you believe is inaccurate. We only dispute information that's inaccurate or incomplete.